Jack London would probably never have eaten at most of the restaurants in the square which bears his name. It’s hard to picture Jack diving into a plate of frozen jalapeno poppers at T.G.I. Friday’s. I can’t visualize him in a generic franchise like the Spaghetti Warehouse, nor in the neo-cuteness of Hahn’s Hibachi. Sandwiches and pastries at Barnes and Noble would have been out of the question.
Across the Embarcadero, however, in the 60’s modern Jack London Inn, there exists a corner coffee shop which might very well have been to his liking. Alternately known as Kelly’s and the Jack London Coffee Shop, this is one of my favorite spots in the Bay Area.
The menu ranges from diner standards to soul food. Meats include amazing pork chops, meat loaf, fried catfish, barbecue, and chicken in a basket. They also serve a pretty fair hamburger. The real stars, though, are the vegatables. A “greens plate” at $5.50 includes collard greens, yams, macaroni and cheese and two other sides. This plate can also be combined with a meat for a mega-meal.
The place hasn’t been remodeled since about 1962, which is a big plus for yer humble host. Aqua booths and counter stools, colorful tiles, and a giant map of old Oakland are the decor. There’s a pretty interesting-looking bar connected.
I’ve hit the place several times with Dan the ex-roomie and once with co-conspirator Sarah. She had chicken. She was amused. Turns out my regular waitress is now one of the owners too. Couldn’t have happened to a nicer person.
Sunday is the best time to visit, to catch all the dinner specials which attract the after-church trade. Service is sometimes a bit sluggish, but it’s worth the wait. We hope Kelly’s never changes. It’s one more antedote to the cuteness which is swallowing San Francisco and the Bay Area.
Kelly’s Coffee Shop, Jack London Inn, Broadway at Embarcadero, Oakland.
Open 24 hours. Some credit cards accepted.